November 7, 2019 at 9:41 am #50858
Allen Margolis passed away surfing at FPI on Oct. 31st. Every day he paddled out before first light and became part of the ocean and nature. He was a welcoming fixture for those of us who showed up at Dawn Patrol… if his van was in the lot, you knew it was not completely flat.
Even with a bad hip and heart, he found a way to surf and get barreled on his stomach and his enormous heavy board. He never missed. His ability to read the waves was uncanny. He took to helping my crew in an understated way, pointing out a wave and a missed technique without criticism.
He was well respected by all of the locals, some who had surfed with him over 50 years. The stories about him are legendary.
It is not the same without Allen on the waves, Allen dragging the board to and from the shore, Allen waxing philosophical about life, about all of us being connected to one another. He stuffed that van full of his own gear and also wholesale surf gear. Because I respected him, I selected the least ugly board shorts he sold and wore them on every boardie day, foregoing my fancy once. They worked better than the fancy ones, even if they were not eye catching . They were cool for much deeper reasons, reasons that had to do with respect for Allen and for the locals who treated my crew so well, all of the time.
The last morning,it was big and choppy. Several locals were in the water and spotted Allen’s board. Alone on a wave. Then they spotted him face down in the water.
They dragged his body to the shore, and being EMT’s themselves and watermen, they tried to revive him. A ranger finally arrived with paddles, but too late. Might not have helped anyway.
He was 76, left many friends, family, and a great legacy. …
I imagine flsurfdog knew him…Allen was so legendary for his surfing, his seminal surf photography, that he received the above write up on surfline.November 7, 2019 at 9:59 am #50859
Thanks for sharing Betty, very sorry to hear about your friend Allen. I’m not sure if I ever met him or crossed paths with him in the water when I was down there but I remember you and Valhallalla talking about him. At least he went doing what he loved, we all should be so fortunate when that time comes. RIP Allen, get barreled in heaven brother!November 7, 2019 at 11:48 am #50878
ChavezGromNovember 7, 2019 at 11:55 am #50883
AkaPumpmasterGromNovember 7, 2019 at 10:17 pm #50953
Yes Betty, I’ve known Allen for quite some time, I knew him long enough to call him a good friend, he will be dearly missed. There have been countless days I would paddle out before the sun would come up and there he would be, laying on his board waiting for the next set to appear with a smile on his face. He passed away doing what he loved to do, SURF.
November 8, 2019 at 5:31 am #50963
- Last modifed 2 months, 2 weeks ago
BarryCudaGromNovember 8, 2019 at 12:33 pm #50971
Sounds like he lived a full life making the most of the hand dealt. Didn’t know him but he has my respect. It’s kind of hard to admit but we are surrounded by life and death and most times I dont pay much attention but when a fellow surfer passes away it makes me sad. RIP brother.
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