Where’s The Stoke?

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This topic contains 47 replies, has 20 voices, and was last updated by  AkaPumpmaster 1 day, 17 hours ago.

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  • #54208

    I think everyone has nailed it in their own rite, it’s been an awesome read whilst I have a taste of bourbon to toast the day, fellas. Good topic DP

    I think this is one of the best years of surf for this part of Florida for a while. My stoke tank has been consistantly close to the full mark for a while. Last year had its days, but man it’s been a really good run topped off by surfing NZ this past Nov.

    I hear what you’re saying about moving to the east coast DP. My wife and I have been talking about this recently as we have been contemplating it for the future, but we do love it here. I have a bit longer of a drive to do an EC strike, but I think it helps keeps it interesting. Im actually heading to St Aug Beach next week for a quick strike and I’m pumped to hit my go to spots over there. I’m grateful for everyday of surf we have here, and we’ve had a lot this fall and winter. There are 3 guys I surf with and we all turn into a bunch of kids when we have surf double over ankle or chest to shoulder high. We’ve commented a few times recently on how great it’s been. And I hate to chance karma, but holy fuck it’s been an awesome past few months and last year for that matter.

    Like Pump alluded, I think it’s all about keeping your stoke up, even if it’s not surf. When it’s flat, I free dive the fuck out of the Gulf and my boys are getting into it. At work, I play with food and can geek the fuck out new food or techniques. I’ve gotten into ice carving too which is fun and mentally challenging as my art work up until now consisted of stick figures. Now I make pieces and surprise myself when I look back at them. Now none of these are anywhere near the same experience I get from surfing, but it does provide an element of stoke and keeps my mind from running away with the what if’s that certainly can infest my brain if allowed.

    I find keeping myself in that stoked state of mind helps keep me out of that funk feeling. Life seems to close in on me when I’m not keeping myself occupied or pushing myself.

    Luckily, we’ve had a great run of waves. Now if I’ve just fucked it up by talking about it, I’ll be invading all your spots. Just in time for summer surf season

    #54209

    Good stuff guys. See, there is still some stoke left in the world, just had to ask people to speak up is all. 😎

    For the record, and Panhandler mentioned it, FL has had an above average Fall / Winter surf season with larger than average wave heights and consistency above the norm. Wind hasn’t always cooperated but I do remember some glassy conditions. And I have surfed a ton, so I am grateful for my location and the amount of water time I get.

    Thanks for chiming in everybody, that’s what I was looking for!

    #54213

    i also think a lot of it is that there are so many idiots in the water, sometimes it’s just not worth it. Used to be once labor day hit, only the diehards had the breaks all to themselves. Now breaks are crowded even in the dead of winter. And crowded with entitled jerkoffs who have no sense of etiquette.

    • Last modifed 1 week ago
    #54235

    LBCrew
    Grom

    Used to be once labor day hit, only the diehards had the breaks all to themselves. Now breaks are crowded even in the dead of winter.

    That’s because you probably surf at a good spot. Nine times out of ten my local isn’t working as good as a few other spots, and the locals who are still around in the winter know it. That leaves me alone most days, which is fine by me. I’ll trade a shorter ride for an empty lineup any day!

    #54237

    Another thing is the actual sharing of stoke DP. I’ve noticed that it’s rare to surf with buddies lately, at least for myself. Schedules, excuses, LACK of said stoke all around and it’s almost like you begin to cut off. Get selfish in a way. The last time I surfed, an occasional surf buddy was supposed to go too. He was late and I was almost relieved – not because I don’t like the guy, but because I was so jammed up and focused on trying to catch waves that it was barely fun. He shows up and wants to talk, surf and be stoked and all I wanted to do was finally catch some surf. I don’t think I’m alone either – a lot f people I surf with and get stoked with have been absent or elusive. In short DP, I think it’s been said well here; it comes and goes in waves but its always there for us.

    #54239

    Another thing is the actual sharing of stoke DP. I’ve noticed that it’s rare to surf with buddies lately, at least for myself. Schedules, excuses, LACK of said stoke all around and it’s almost like you begin to cut off. Get selfish in a way. The last time I surfed, an occasional surf buddy was supposed to go too. He was late and I was almost relieved – not because I don’t like the guy, but because I was so jammed up and focused on trying to catch waves that it was barely fun. He shows up and wants to talk, surf and be stoked and all I wanted to do was finally catch some surf. I don’t think I’m alone either – a lot f people I surf with and get stoked with have been absent or elusive. In short DP, I think it’s been said well here; it comes and goes in waves but its always there for us.

    Yeah I agree, it’s always fun to feed off a friend’s stoke and share some waves together. But as you said, life gets in the way with a lot of people and it’s difficult sometimes getting people to paddle out when and where you’re paddling out. Point and case, I had plans with a buddy to come down this weekend from JAX but his wife had a change of plans and put the kobosh on it, so we’ll get together another time. Woulda been fun though.

    Most of the time I don’t bother asking people to meet up for surf because it does get old getting the excuses. When I first moved here (Melbourne) almost 5 years ago I found a few spots that are virtually empty most of the year, but especially in the Winter months. I didn’t surf with another human being, friend or stranger for quite a while. It got to the point where I started getting lonely lol Now, if I run into one or two people I am stoked, so long as they keep their distance and don’t become a hazard or annoyance.

    Today was a good example of that, I met a guy in the water and we were stoked for each other when we got a good one, but then we kept it movin. Afterwards I was saying hello to some surfers just making it to the beach as I was leaving and I shared my stoke with them, and they got pumped to paddle out. Good times, good vibes.

    • Last modifed 6 days, 18 hours ago
    #54242

    wives and kids destroy stoke like crazy

    #54244

    wives and kids destroy stoke like crazy

    everyone lies in the bed they made

    #54245

    @lbcrew agreed

    Its like me complaining that pipe has 60 guys, while 600 yards down the reef chambers has 15 guys and is sick as well

     

    @whereswaldo, linking up with other grown ups who have kids and a full time jobs is hard. I work 5am to 2pm, not too many grown ups are able to surf mid afternoon with me, so I end up going solo a lot. its special when I can paddle out with a buddy

    #54248

    true. i told my wife way before we got married that surfing is very high on my list and if she can’t deal then find another guy.

    #54249

    oipaul
    Grom

    @lbcrew agreed Its like me complaining that pipe has 60 guys, while 600 yards down the reef chambers has 15 guys and is sick as well @whereswaldo, linking up with other grown ups who have kids and a full time jobs is hard. I work 5am to 2pm, not too many grown ups are able to surf mid afternoon with me, so I end up going solo a lot. its special when I can paddle out with a buddy

     

    That’s funny, we work the same schedule, 6am-2pm. EC core hours? My window is from 2-4pm weekdays and one weekend day. I surf the onshore slop A LOT.

    • Last modifed 6 days, 19 hours ago
    #54251

    @oipaul yep 6-2 this time of year and 5-1 once the clocks change

    not a bad schedule although that 445am wake up can be a bit grating at times in the summer

    #54255

    LBCrew
    Grom

    I’m at my desk by 0700hrs. That means pre-work sessions are impossible during the school year; doable during the summer. I don’t get out of work until 3:30 or 4:00 at the EARLIEST. That means post-work sessions are either very short/not worth it, or outright impossible for about 6 weeks of the year – about three weeks each side of the winter solstice. So for about a month out of the year I’m pretty much a weekend KOOK! You might say…. well, that’s only a difference of about 15 minutes of daylight. But that 15 minutes makes a big difference when you’ve only got 30 or 40 minutes of light left in the day.

    I will confess, though… I will burn a personal day here and there if I know it’s going to be good enough to justify the day off. Gotta do what you gotta do to keep yourself sane, right?

    • Last modifed 6 days, 19 hours ago
    #54269

    @lbcrew, sick days too breh, mental health is crucial

    #54276

    Yankee
    Grom

    2am wake up during summer, 3 hr drive to TPTSNBN. I kinda welcome autumn’s shorter hours so I can get up @ 4am for that drive.

    If the fucast is correct, one sesh. If the fucast is correct & the tides & wind are right, I might eke out 2 sessions, glory glory hallelujah. Either way, makes the late afternoon drive home lush.

    If the fucast is incorrecto, if the winds shift, if shiite happens, then I’m skunked. Go get brekky at the diner, take a nap, aim the FJ towards home.

    DP used to have the mission from hell when he lived on the Gulf.

    Some us do what we are driven to do by forces deeper than our capacity to fathom what they are 🙂

    • Last modifed 6 days, 9 hours ago
    #54280

    Mitchell
    Grom

    Warm weather is fine but every winter gets tougher to maintain the stoke. The core group of 10-15 guys i regularly call, text, check surf with and surf we’re all getting older and many really aren’t into it once the water drops below 50. These are guys that 20- years ago were ready to surf cold shitty waves every swell. The kind of days where you really need to have someone egging you on to paddle out. The kind of days where 4 -5 people better SAY they are up for a surf because once you step over the dune and look at it, half of them are going to suddenly remember something else they had to do.

    My stoke is ok. I’m getting 2 to maybe 3 sesh’s a week but i’m not into it if its windy and cold. Its been a very very mild winter so far. That helps. Today was really typical. checked at 7:30 on my way to work….waist high cloudy, cold, raw with a tiny bit of side shore wind but clean and ridable. Nobody out. Went to work and by 3 p.m. the sun was out. I can see the Delaware Bay from my office and It was glassy and shimmering blue/silver. I knew that the surf was going to be glassy but very small. Ended up surfing from 4-5 p.m. and had a magic solo session on the mini simmons right at sunset my favorite time to surf. Stoke level….hanging in there, but the weather is supposed to cool off next week, but then again I’m headed to Florida and will be surfing Jupiter Inlet this time next week. Stoke level will get a boost.

     

    • Last modifed 6 days, 8 hours ago
    #54283

    hey Yank. Got a couch you can probably use on occasion to reduce the day trippage

    #54288

    Chavez
    Grom

    I’m at my desk by 0700hrs. That means pre-work sessions are impossible during the school year; doable during the summer. I don’t get out of work until 3:30 or 4:00 at the EARLIEST. That means post-work sessions are either very short/not worth it, or outright impossible for about 6 weeks of the year – about three weeks each side of the winter solstice. So for about a month out of the year I’m pretty much a weekend KOOK! You might say…. well, that’s only a difference of about 15 minutes of daylight. But that 15 minutes makes a big difference when you’ve only got 30 or 40 minutes of light left in the day. I will confess, though… I will burn a personal day here and there if I know it’s going to be good enough to justify the day off. Gotta do what you gotta do to keep yourself sane, right?

    I used a sick day yesterday. The waves were anywhere from knee to waist high. Next to no wind. It was damn near 60 degrees, the water actually felt refreshing. On January 15th! Sunny day. Only two other guys out from 5th to 7th in OCNJ. I’ll take that any day of the week.

    #54379

    JayD
    Grom

    What up ya derelicts? Got a very cool “howzit?” Message from DP the other day.

    Been nursing an upper back/shoulder issue and I have not been in the H2O for 2months! I figured I would check in with you guys on the lack of stoke tread and try to limp in with some stoke…

    i feel like I’m @90 percent for daily grind and 60ish for serious surf (relative term on the EC).

    anyway, I’m just stoked in general. No sugar coating or embellished rants…just relatively stoked. You see, I have grown up getting to ride waves (some very good waves and some very bad). nonetheless I surf therefore I have a certain level of stoke that is inherent to my being. It’s not leaving.

    The evolution or devil/lution of stoke is a product of ones being and circumstance (I hope all that are inherently stoked are not side tracked by circumstances). Even though my body is aging I’m still catching waves. It’s actually pretty awesome.

    I cant imagine being a dinosaur like Berry and catching waves…shit that is probably pure stoke!

    enjoy the ride fellas…peace!

    #54386

    BarryCuda
    Grom

    Why am I always referred to when the discussion includes dinosaurs, jurassic, triassic topics???

    I was here wayyyy before them…..!!!

    Hey JayD…glad to see you post, ya blistering moron!! Bahahahahahaha!!!!

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