Who here has been surfing this week?

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This topic contains 537 replies, has 46 voices, and was last updated by  DawnPatrol321 6 hours, 41 minutes ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 501 through 520 (of 538 total)
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  • #49789

    UnfurleD
    Grom

    lingering rain with chop kept the crowds from coming to la playa after work. then it cleaned up all nicely which i was predicting and the rain stopped. very small crowd on one street of the washout. the rest was the wild west. my buddy was electric bout it, couldn’t believe i was right and the spot was up for grabs. I didn’t capitalize on it as best as I could, but to say i didn’t have a good handful and enjoy the sunset would be a load of sht. Lotta times i found myself in the middle of close outs on both sides, and just taking the wipeouts. Gotta couple carves to the left on a few and the last one was 3 rides to shore. I’m hoping the wind will cease at the end of the day today, and keep my luck going. still not flexing a rashguard/wetsuit, but i know those days are whining down

    #49822

    Some fun waves coming in this morning! I paddled out at first light on my 6’4″ Flashback Fish and caught a bunch of chest – head high semi clean waves on the high outgoing tide. Some lefts, some rights. I was one of the first people in the water but it didn’t take long for a small crowd to form. I got mine though. Wish I could have stayed longer. I’m going to have to play hooky one of these days and do an all day surf. Haven’t done that in a while, so i’m due.

    #49829

    UnfurleD
    Grom

    ran out back to washout after work with the same guy from yesterday. lil more textured, lil more drift. still bout stomach hi. got to get my rights in on the LB just bout on every wave. getting a lil chillier, will need to put on the rashguard on the next sess- likely after work today. these tropical swells off the coast are producing

    #49843

    LBCrew
    Grom

    I haven’t surfed since October 2nd… but I took the day off and surfed all day. My shoulder has hurt ever since. Definitely over did it.

    Looking forward to this weekend for this storm to clean up… it looks to be a pretty epic situation.

    #49850

    Chavez
    Grom

    I haven’t surfed since October 2nd… but I took the day off and surfed all day. My shoulder has hurt ever since. Definitely over did it. Looking forward to this weekend for this storm to clean up… it looks to be a pretty epic situation.

    Sunday looks like the clean up day down this end of the Garden State. Gonna try to get one more session in with Starfish before he heads back to the Island.

    #49857

    I haven’t surfed since October 2nd… but I took the day off and surfed all day. My shoulder has hurt ever since. Definitely over did it. Looking forward to this weekend for this storm to clean up… it looks to be a pretty epic situation.

    Sunday looks like the clean up day down this end of the Garden State. Gonna try to get one more session in with Starfish before he heads back to the Island.

    saturday looking messy but really big so Sunday will be the day… nice period and swell! Where’s Starfishy been lately? Seems a bit quiet in the forummes

    #49864

    C499FEA5-574F-4356-85F3-7CB28EEF09EAE9A14D83-BF86-45E3-B048-069542E63CA2

    Nasty week, awesome weekend…. sometimes the long Ass flat spells are worth the wait for spring, fall and winter swells around here.

     

    #49897

    UnfurleD
    Grom

    we’re on the end of our trop swell run in the Carolinas, during the week of course but the tide times have helped. Went out yesterday to what looked like nothin much of the cams. bout to go to Washout but noticed waves down the street were holding well on hi tide, a rarity. walked the LB down and flew on a bunch of in and outs. had a couple ppl credit the ones i got to ride out a while. of course wipeouts were mixed in. buddy rolled in 20 or so minutes after and we got to get close to the pier and both prolly made the better decision to not shoot the pier. i was flying down a wave on my left, practically on one knee, and pulled up cuz i didn’t see an opening and the wave was crashing right at the pier if i tried. puss i know. these evening sessions has kept me sane and happy, needed that one yesterday after a hospital bill came up for $800. sht don’t end, trying to be positive

    #49902

    NY looks like a wave pool today. Who scored??

    #49907

    BarryCuda
    Grom

    Victory at Sea here today. Just as well, I am precluded from going out for a few days anyhow……

    #49928

    Mitchell
    Grom

    Winds let up a lot this afternoon, and some spots on Delmarva started lining up.

    October-10-2019h

    October-10-2019e

    October-10-2019a

    • Last modifed 5 days, 19 hours ago
    #49954

    NYNJ
    Grom

    Is Bassmon on here? Or any of the NY fellas?

    I wasn’t able to get to NY yesterday but every pic I’ve seen is nuts. Everyone I spoke to said it was filthy barrels all day and it’s still firing.

    #49958

    Is Bassmon on here? Or any of the NY fellas? I wasn’t able to get to NY yesterday but every pic I’ve seen is nuts. Everyone I spoke to said it was filthy barrels all day and it’s still firing.

    Bassmon has been on here but he hasn’t been around for a little while. See if you can get him on here and post those pics, I would love to see them!

    #49959

    Short version: quick hit and run pre-work session at a wind-protected longbort spot in Southern New England. Long peeling chest to head high lefts. Only had time for a couple, but had a blast.

    Long version: woke up at 4 am, drove for 1:40 to a different spot that had potential to be epic. Size was there (had to be DOH on sets though hard to tell from hundreds of yards away with no one riding them) and wind was mostly offshore, but it was howling. I’d guess 30+ mph sustained. Watched it for well over an hour, debating, trying to get motivated. One guy paddled out shortly after first light, but in the hour or so I watched him (first 20 min of which was the paddle out), he only caught one wave and it closed out pretty quick after the drop. By the time I left only 1 or 2 more had joined him… most everyone else just watching and waiting. Had written the trip off as a failure and pre-work surf window was essentially gone, but checked one more spot on the advice of a friend who used to live in the area and definitely scored. Looking at cams there are more takers at my original spot now, but gotta imagine the work to wave ratio is ridiculous. Looked very, very challenging with the wind. Had I not been solo, or had there been more people out getting rides, or had I had several hours free to wait for a better window I might’ve given it a try, but happy with my decision. Now most likely waiting till Sunday for the cleanup closer to home.

    #49977

    It ‘twas a bit like a washing machine yesterday and today, but the certain chunk of sandbar is really making some fun waves. The artificial reefs they dropped seem to be helping hold everything in place for now. Lots of fun drops into easy rollers and then reform all the way in.

    Also, 4 weeks and 1 day until NZ, not counting the days or anything

    #50005

    I almost didn’t go surfing today, but I was out doing some shopping with my wife and I asked her to swing by the beach so I could check it and pick up some pizza for later from the beachside market, which has the best pie in town.

    Waves were big and looking fun despite the light – moderate onshore wind. I said “let’s go home now so I can grab my board and come back”, which I did. When I got back to the beach I checked another spot and almost paddled out but I changed my mind at the last minute when I saw the amount of white water and relentless paddle that I was about to endure.

    Instead I went back to where I was earlier when I checked it and paddled out on my 6’ M-80 at dead low incoming. It was head high with sets a couple feet overhead and a little bumpy and chunky and breaking nonstop.

    My first paddle out took about 20-30 minutes to make it to the outside. Duck dive citay! But I would not be denied, although I questioned if I was wasting my time.

    I finally made it outside and sat and caught my breath and let my heart rate settle before taking a wave. My first attempt I drop in on a bomb set and started to make my bottom turn a little too early and dug my rail as I hit a bump from the chop and lost my footing and ate shit.

    My next few waves went a lot better, although I didn’t get the rides I was hoping for. Just weird and tricky conditions but there were moments where things lined up.

    I finally got my wave of the day toward the middle / end of my session and connected it to the inside and paid for it on the paddle back out and got stuck in the soup again for about 20-30 minutes. I had to wait it out and almost turned to shore to belly it in but I gave it another go and got back outside.

    Then there was a lull and everybody was lined up waiting for a while. After a couple cleanup sets and scratching for the outside and taking a couple on the head I finally found a wave that would take me almost all the way to shore and then I bellied it in on the last inside section.

    Water up my nose and a serious work out after 3hrs but I’m stoked and loving life. Pizza and IPA’s never tasted so good!

     

    #50012

    headhigh
    Grom

    Been surfng a lot lately. Just stopping in to say what’s up.

    Hope that longboard wave sticks around for another day.

    #50024

    BassMon
    Grom

    HEY BUDS! Super cool morning. Bit of back story and a long tobe no see first.

     

    First of, i havnt been surfing much. Probably my longest lay off ever. Mr. B came down early summer and besides that iv only gotten a few days here and there. First i had the new job so i wanted to feel things out before doing the pre work sesh shuffle. Felt like there was never waves on the weekend. By the time i got settled just felt like there wasn’t enough light or conditions just didn’t warrant it. Anyway, iv missed you guys and surfing.

     

    Lack of surfing sort of kept me off here, but it was also this site. No offense. It was a work in progress i know. I got to say things are much improved since my last log in and im super impressed and stoked on it! Good work mo stoke! This place is definitely feeling like home again.

     

    Anyway to this morning’s sesh. Like i said iv been out of the water and felt almost like i wasn’t a surfer anymore. Not a good feeling. Got a few big days recently. Saw this swell and thought things were really lining up. I live right on the bay in a pretty isolated spot. Only 3 roads into the neighborhood. Thursday night. I got home from work around 6. Saw the water was pretty high and just coming up onto the dock. By 630 i left to go to bjj practice. Water was now higher and flooding across the street. Not deep though and honestly didn’t think much of it. There was flood warnings but i wasn’t expecting what came next. I got out of practice at 830. Had two missed calls from wifey. Called back and she was hysterical and freaking out. Water was up to our front steps street had about 2 ft of water and she was worried about her truck. Two of the 3 roads getting into my neighborhood were blocked off. Got down ther third road but had to zig zag through. On my way i ran into serious flooding. 2-3ft deep, should not of been driving through it but i had to get home. Lost power steering, pretty sure i flooded my engine and have to flush that puppy out (good thing im getting ready to get rid of it). Anyway long story short i got home. No water got in the house but it was damn close. Every high tide from Thursday night til Saturday afternoon was a nail biter. Was no rain. Just storm surge and full moon high tides. Dock in my back yard completly submerged. Debris everywhere. Things are a mess although it could of been much worse.

    So this threw my plan of surfing off. So sorry NYNJ, i got no idea how it was. This morning i went down. At first glance i said “well shit!”. Looked tiny and boring. Im getting skunked again and still not making it out. Watching in disappointment i started realizing there was a fun wave after all.

    Took the 5’8 out. Lots of weaker waist high stuff but you got a good set,stomach to chest high thumpers every so often. Barrel section right off the take off. Then a bit of open face if it stayed open. Really fun. Not a high wave count day but a quality day. Bunch of fun lefts. Some chandelier barrels, couple back hand whacks, some straight race tracks. Really a mixed bag. Not many guys out.

    What made today so cool was a few things. I really felt like i would be rusty, I’d probably have a terrible day. Took a bit longer then it normally would to figure my positioning out but from the second i paddled into my first wave it was like i hadn’t taken any time off. Felt really nice, felt like home again, just felt right. Another cool thing was this huge pod of dolphins. Had to of been 20-30 of them. Right in the mix with us. Going back and forth and riding waves. They were not shy at all.

     

    Really feel good sesh after the craziness of the past few days, the long lay off, and the icing on the cake is coming back here to share the story and seeing all the improvements. Feels good to be back in the mix, both out in the water and here.

     

    Hope you’ve all been well and looking forward to catching up.

    #50027

    kidrock
    Grom

    NY looks like a wave pool today. Who scored??

    So, que paso Foamie? Did you ever make it down there?

    a friend of mine that always goes with Thunderbomb at The Boom in northern Nica told me that Thunderbomb is opening a camp on that island in Chiriqui, Panama that was limiting the number of surfers.

    I don’t know if they’re taking over the existing camp, or if they’re making a new one to add to the existing one. Hoping they bought the old guys out and continue to limit the number of surfers.

    speaking of limiting surfers: does anyone have any scooby on the Cardon surf ranch near Mazatlan? There was a lot of hoopla several years ago about how the surf ranch and local citizenry (including cops) were intimidating and chasing off everyone who wasn’t a registered guest. My kind of resort lol, what a great way to limit people on a spot. Trying to find out if they’re still using their blend of crowd control tactics.

    NOTE: this is a copy of a post I submitted on SI earlier this morning, in response to Foamie’s trip to Panama.

    • Last modifed 3 days, 5 hours ago
    #50030

    HEY BUDS! Super cool morning. Bit of back story and a long tobe no see first. First of, i havnt been surfing much. Probably my longest lay off ever. Mr. B came down early summer and besides that iv only gotten a few days here and there. First i had the new job so i wanted to feel things out before doing the pre work sesh shuffle. Felt like there was never waves on the weekend. By the time i got settled just felt like there wasn’t enough light or conditions just didn’t warrant it. Anyway, iv missed you guys and surfing. Lack of surfing sort of kept me off here, but it was also this site. No offense. It was a work in progress i know. I got to say things are much improved since my last log in and im super impressed and stoked on it! Good work mo stoke! This place is definitely feeling like home again. Anyway to this morning’s sesh. Like i said iv been out of the water and felt almost like i wasn’t a surfer anymore. Not a good feeling. Got a few big days recently. Saw this swell and thought things were really lining up. I live right on the bay in a pretty isolated spot. Only 3 roads into the neighborhood. Thursday night. I got home from work around 6. Saw the water was pretty high and just coming up onto the dock. By 630 i left to go to bjj practice. Water was now higher and flooding across the street. Not deep though and honestly didn’t think much of it. There was flood warnings but i wasn’t expecting what came next. I got out of practice at 830. Had two missed calls from wifey. Called back and she was hysterical and freaking out. Water was up to our front steps street had about 2 ft of water and she was worried about her truck. Two of the 3 roads getting into my neighborhood were blocked off. Got down ther third road but had to zig zag through. On my way i ran into serious flooding. 2-3ft deep, should not of been driving through it but i had to get home. Lost power steering, pretty sure i flooded my engine and have to flush that puppy out (good thing im getting ready to get rid of it). Anyway long story short i got home. No water got in the house but it was damn close. Every high tide from Thursday night til Saturday afternoon was a nail biter. Was no rain. Just storm surge and full moon high tides. Dock in my back yard completly submerged. Debris everywhere. Things are a mess although it could of been much worse. So this threw my plan of surfing off. So sorry NYNJ, i got no idea how it was. This morning i went down. At first glance i said “well shit!”. Looked tiny and boring. Im getting skunked again and still not making it out. Watching in disappointment i started realizing there was a fun wave after all. Took the 5’8 out. Lots of weaker waist high stuff but you got a good set,stomach to chest high thumpers every so often. Barrel section right off the take off. Then a bit of open face if it stayed open. Really fun. Not a high wave count day but a quality day. Bunch of fun lefts. Some chandelier barrels, couple back hand whacks, some straight race tracks. Really a mixed bag. Not many guys out. What made today so cool was a few things. I really felt like i would be rusty, I’d probably have a terrible day. Took a bit longer then it normally would to figure my positioning out but from the second i paddled into my first wave it was like i hadn’t taken any time off. Felt really nice, felt like home again, just felt right. Another cool thing was this huge pod of dolphins. Had to of been 20-30 of them. Right in the mix with us. Going back and forth and riding waves. They were not shy at all. Really feel good sesh after the craziness of the past few days, the long lay off, and the icing on the cake is coming back here to share the story and seeing all the improvements. Feels good to be back in the mix, both out in the water and here. Hope you’ve all been well and looking forward to catching up.

    Welcome back brother, good to have you back in the lineup. Great post too. Very sorry to hear about the challenges you have faced but I see lots of good surf in your future!

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