November 6, 2019 at 9:51 am #50761
It was raining from the time I left my house all the way to the beach but as I approached my go-to spot the rain stopped and there was a little break in the clouds. I brought my change of pace board, the 8’1″ McTavish single fin, which I have had for years but still surfs like it’s new and is in great shape given all of the TLC I have given it over the years with a few dings and cracks being repaired along the way.
Surf is still fun today, we have more swell mix around waist – chest, peaky and a little chunky at times but occasionally it would line up very nicely. Wind was light SE to near calm, so it was slightly bumpy and at times kinda glassy. The inside was a little challenging if you rode a wave all the way in, there’s a sand bar that never quits breaking and you gotta battle to get back out, but once past that bar it’s easy paddling after that. There was a mix of lefts and rights and many of them connected from the outside all the way to the beach.
This board while it is 8’1″ is very maneuverable so it’s pretty easy to whip it around, get vertical, hit the lip and drop back in for more. It’s really fun and I should probably ride it more often. Maybe I will. I’ve had the beach all to myself lately, which has been very nice. This spot can be lonely in the Fall / Winter and even early Spring, usually being the only surfer in the water and maybe one fisherman on the beach. The fish have been very active as of late, jumping all over the place, big and small. Water has been a dark coke bottle green and warm enough to trunk it still, but it’s cool and refreshing at first light.
Who else has been surfing lately?
November 7, 2019 at 9:22 am #50855
- Last modifed 5 days, 14 hours ago
This morning I hit the same spot with the same board as yesterday. Waves still hanging around in the waist – chest range, light onshore breeze making conditions slightly bumpy but not too bad, lots of crumbly chunky sections coming in. I got stung by a jelly fish or three, on my ankle / leg, arm, and other arm, but I’ll live, it’s nothing compared to when I got hit by that Portuguese Man O’ War a while back, THAT was painful and lasted for quite a while, worst attack I have ever had from an ocean critter. Anyways, I had a good session, it’s been a good week, tomorrow looks a little smaller maybe but should have some light offshore wind to clean things up some.
November 8, 2019 at 9:57 am #50966
- Last modifed 4 days, 18 hours ago
What a beautiful morning it is / was today. I almost didn’t make it out but I’m glad I got out there for almost an hour and a half. I brought the LB to be on the safe side, since it was forecasted to be small. It turned out to be better than expected with more waist – chest waves, they were glassy and near perfect with calm to light offshore winds.
I was getting most of my rides on the middle and inside bars. A few of them were easy entry long open faces, while others were steep punchy and had a nice wall to them. I could have ridden a SB but I’m not going to 2nd guess my boart choice, because I was getting every wave that came through and the rides were incredible.
At one point a medium sized shark came by to say hello, then he took out some bait fish and kept it movin. I just waited it out, and after a few minutes a nice set wave came in and took my mind off him. Water color and clarity was gorgeous, sun was out and weather is great. Wish I took the day off and stayed at the beach ALL DAY!November 8, 2019 at 2:18 pm #50976November 10, 2019 at 12:56 pm #51011
I checked a few spots this morning starting close to home and then made my way North to get some wind protection and ended up at a spot that’s tucked in a little bit where NW wind is offshore. Wind was light early on and was good for about an hour and then the wind picked up and was more out of the North as time went on. I rode my 6’4” Flashback Fish and caught a bunch of chest high waves with a few shoulder – head high peaks on the largest sets.November 11, 2019 at 8:56 am #51054
Had a great day yesterday. Thanked my dad for his service to the county by taking him to lunch, then hit the local longboard spot and it was amazing….warm (for November) little peelers full of groms and their parents. I brought my single fin Jon Ashton log and the waves were perfect for walking around on it. I can never really nose ride, but spent plenty of time with the toes near the tip trimming along the zippy little faces.
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