Who here has been surfing this week?

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This topic contains 763 replies, has 49 voices, and was last updated by  StarfishOrifice 8 hours, 36 minutes ago.

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    Possible Tropical Storm East of Leeward Islands…50% chance to form, according to National Hurricane Center–view their page. Still is hurricane season until last day of November…

    <p>It is now Tropical Storm Sebastien, about 5-600 miles NE of PR. View NHC maps for details. Late in the season for sure, but better late than never. Seems headed to open Atlantic….

    Thanks for the update, one last hurrah!? </p>


    Hawaii has been pumping, but I have been laying low recovering, looks like I have low energy next few weeks while I recover.

    I did surf this slabby little wave 50 yards from shore, I got 3 waves, two lefts and a right, rode the 5’5 fish, I think I need bigger fins. The wave is truthfully really weird, but walking to it makes it neat imo, also surfing it alone is pretty neat. No duck dives needed as its right by a large channel. sometimes I wish someone would surf it with me as surfing by a deep channel can be spooky. The right stands up and puts you in a shallow spot while the left spills into the channel. Its typically onshore, but there have been some rain/fronts making kona winds or low/no wind conditions. It was only stomach/chest hi, but its always bowly and short ride


    thankful to surf in trunks, all my friends back in jerz are in 4 mil boots and gloves….brrrr


    also goofyfooter, keep us in loop, I have friends and relatives in melbourne wife and fam and I might be down that way next nov. possibly

    • Last modifed 2 months, 1 week ago



    Possible Tropical Storm East of Leeward Islands…50% chance to form, according to National Hurricane Center–view their page. Still is hurricane season until last day of November…

    <p>It is now Tropical Storm Sebastien, about 5-600 miles NE of PR. View NHC maps for details. Late in the season for sure, but better late than never. Seems headed to open Atlantic….

    Thanks for the update, one last hurrah!? </p>


    in jerz, I think 2005 I surfed tropical storm alpha? beta? something like that, the season went late on long and they had to start greek alphabet names


    Manu Point, Raglan. Still at 3/4 wood



    Wish I could post a video, wife got a good one to show how long the ride is. I’ll try again when I get back.

    Really working hard on getting the wife into relocating for a year. We had to have a hospital visit because the youngest had a pretty good fall. She was very impressed with how that went so that is a major step. Little man is fine, kind of banged up but ready to have a surf tomorrow morning.



    Nice little swell in the water today. I took the 6’4″ Coil Flashback Fish for a spin and caught a bunch of solid waist – chest and clean waves before work. I have been wearing my 3/2 last couple of sessions, slightly chilly but not too bad. Beautiful morning though, wish I was still there…



    RE: Raglan, that looks pretty fun! when I was there only the beach break inside the bay was working, still a beautiful spot.

    I got out locally yesterday afternoon at a right hand point up the coast on this new NW, pretty fun size at head plus on sets.

    • Last modifed 2 months ago

    Caught the longest ride today, absolute stoke when I cut out.

    Crowd has been really laid back and friendly, sure that changes a bit when it’s really firing




    Yes those pictures are very nice, but, for some reason I like the “geography” in scantilyclad thread better…nice mountains and valleys…!!



    Pan, what’s the climate like there ?


    Another fun morning today, I hit it early at a typically crowded spot and went down the beach a bit and had plenty of space to do my thing. I rode the 6’4″ again and caught lots of waist – chest with a few in the shoulder – head range on the very best sets. It was soooo glassy and smooth with calm – light offshore wind. It was lully at times and had to wait a while for a set but when one came through it was time to go! I had some really good rides, and I biffed a couple too, which sometimes is just as fun lol. I saw some dolphins, a couple baby sharks, such a gorgeous day. I stayed out for about 3 1/2 hours and finally got tired and hungry and went to grab some Chik Fila. College football is on now, gotta go.


    Spring here, so highs in the mid 70s, lows at night in the upper 50s. Water temp is mid 60s, getting warmer the farther north we go.

    Caught a post DP this morning, conditions were perfect, over cast and glassy waves. Best part was I had Manu all to myself for almost an hour. Wish we could stay a bit longer here (everywhere we’ve been for that matter).


    The swell has faded but there was still a fun little wave out there this morning on the mid-low outgoing tide. I rode the LB and got a bunch of fun thigh – waist highs with a couple a little bigger than that. Wind was light offshore and conditions were clean, toward the end it shifted a little more NW putting some texture on the surface but still clean enough. 3hrs later I’m satisfied and feeling good.



    Just had the best session iv had in awhile. Couldn’t get a read on this swell. All forecasts varied slightly but all were showing a bump around noon and winds would start creeping up to the 30mph+ range. But ther wind forecasts all had diffrent timings. Had no clue if i should head west for wind shelter, stay home for a touch more size. No idea. Just got to go.

    Left at 11 and went to the home break. Miserable out. Rainy. Gloomy. But there was a waist to chest high wave, offshore and pretty light. Only a handful of guys out and spread out. Never leave waves for waves. Im on it.

    Almost rode the 5’7 but knowing wind could get heavy i stayed with ther 5’8. Glad i did. Suited up and hit on it fast. Wind was already picking up but still completly manageable. Dry hair/hood paddle out. Waves were breaking in knee high water just unloading on the bar. Beautiful shape though. Clean, lefts and rights, and an open face thanks to the moderate offshores.

    Took a couple minutes to get situated, you had to take off right under these things. Pretty critical take off. Was pretty out of position on one and didn’t get the angle i needed, bottom turn made me feel like donavon frankenreiter, completly laid out, hand skimming the water to keep me up, just barely holding on with my tippy toes. Wave ended up being a dud but it was a cool bottom turn. Not often you lay out like that around here.

    Best wave was a 4 banger. Took off, came off the bottom right in the pocket and hooked a nice little snap, came straight off the bottom again with even more speed for a similar turn but with more umph, more spray, and more extended, right off the bottom again for another, again with more power, right off the bottom again to bang the end section. No pumps. Just increasing power and speed with each turn. Felt really good, i was stoked.

    Winds got crazy out of nowhere, shifted more west, got one last one. Called it. Short session. Just about an hour. Got a handful of really fun waves. Got it just at the right time. Really amped.

    Now i got to chase these squirrels out of my house (long story, I’m under siege and there stealing my food) then i can watch my packers do the damn thing tonight. Good day. Minus the squirrels.



    Arrived CR yesterday, uneventful journey w DL.

    My new board packing technique of total mummification in 1/8” sheets of styrofoam with sheets of thin cardboard at very bottom & very top plus extra foam along rails seems to be the ticket – – both boards unharmed by baggage monkeys. Used blue tape.

    no board fees from DL

    Took 8’ Smooth Operator out for inaugural run this morn near LT. Very pleased w this fresh boart! Paddles fast, catches waves, maneuvers well. Gets me out the back rapidly.

    Traveling with huge boart has drawbacks. Due to fact that I must travel to surf, I’m trying to keep going down in size from 10’ Driftah. This Lost boart doesn’t disappoint. Cutbacks on OH set waves are sharper than on Driftah. I’m no duck diving ace, but I was able to duck dive this boart with a bit of effort. I’m working on that aspect, as well. Surfing challenges never end nor get old!

    8’ x 22 x 3; 59 liters

    props to DP for bringing this boart to my attention! 🤙😎🌊

    • Last modifed 1 month, 4 weeks ago

    830 am departure tomorrow



    Clean & green OH to HH all week fucast, swell moving in tonight. Glass early, winds go sideshore mid-morning to chop it up a bit but nothing major.

    Rains are gone summer here.


    • Last modifed 1 month, 4 weeks ago

    We got HH Sunday then waist to chest all week.


    Got a fun thigh to waist hi semi choppy session on the LB today, in warm blue water with a few locals. Waves sucked but the vibes were good. Should pick up tomorrow. Cheers ya’ll.



    Cashed in on a return favor for today, got my on call shift covered so i can see my buddy from Las Vegas whos in town. Just so happened to look like a little leftover swell.


    A buddy checked one spot, flat. I went to the home break. Flat except for maybe 100 yard stretch of beach. With the sun close enough to the horizon to give the sky that pink/orange glow as sunrise neared, it was difficult to really see what was going on. Looked small, maybe thigh high but long lines and looked to have nice shape. In the 20s with the wind chill i almost passed but convinced myself just to go. The tide will kill it eventually, i was already there, just go. So i did. Grabbed the mini sims.

    Walking to the peak i realized it was actually kind of firing. I use that word loosely. Thigh high guys were alright, but with the longer period there was waist to stomach high sets coming in every so often, these fast reeeeeeling lefts standing straight up and barreling. It actually could of used a little more tide at first.

    Wasn’t anything special, just way better than it looked. Barrels weren’t really makeable, just to fast, but i got a bunch of great visions pulling in and holding on until the decided i had enough.

    Buddy of mine is a really good brewer, gave me some home brew after the sesh to take home and enjoy. Saw an old head i havnt seen in awhile and did some catching up. Caught some fun waves. Get to spend dinne quality time with a close friend later. Can’t ask for much more on a day where im supposed to be working.


    Except for the squirrels. The squirrel war at my house was thought to be ended but i was wrong. These bastards are ruthless. Im done playing games. These effers are dead. No one eats my left over Halloween candy and gets away with it.

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